Sunday, March 18, 2018

New year, new ideas 2018

It is still two months before the start of the growing season for Iowa sequoias. This winter inflicted yet another massive blow to the non-native trees. Several leaders are dead or nearly dead at this time. Several dozen 1-2 year seedlings were frozen out and are completely brown. 


#255 died after winter 2017/18 exposure

But not all hope is lost. Most of the 5 year olds still have green branches at the base. Many younger seedlings covered with foam cones are looking fine. A detailed report will be published later as the spring unfolds.

Most of this post is about the findings and ideas based on the trip to Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Park.


I traveled to these two parks located reasonably close to each other in the early spring of 2018. Unlike most people in the park who were looking at the largest specimens, I was seeking out the very youngest and the ones with visible damage. I was looking for examples of how they grow in their natural habitat. Here is what I learned and ideas that I am planing to implement on my Iowa plantation.


First of all, even here in California there were many damaged and dead sequoias aged between two and ten years old. I have not seen any dead sequoias older than 15. There was one pretty heavily damaged sequoia aged probably around 15-20 years on Stanford University campus but I don’t believe it was near its death. 

Giant sequoias on Stanford University campus, March 2018. Some visible damage.
That was by far the worst I have seen out of dozens "young" but established sequoias in the 15-50 year range. I can't quite tell the age of older sequoias but there were definitely no visibly damaged sequoias older than that.

There were plenty of other species of conifers of all ages completely dead, so giant sequoias were definitely a standout as in once they get stablished they tend to survive better than other trees. The reasons for other conifer deaths were cited as drought and insect damage.

One conclusion from this first observation relevant to my case is that the longer trees survive the better chance they have to establish. It's not an earth-shattering observation of course, but keeping them protected more aggressively over the first ten years still makes sense. Second conclusion is that it may make sense to limit their vertical growth for the first 10 years to allow heavier protection. I can not keep them "under a blanket" for 30 years but perhaps I can for the first 10, given I continue some vertical trimming. So far the best preserved sequoia is the one that lost 80% of the trunk last winter and re-grew decent volume during last growing season:
#207 March 2018. Lost major volume during 2016/17 winter but recovered in 2017. Minimal damage during 2017/18 winter after being kept under foam cone.
I might as well start forcing them to lose the height in a more manageable fashion. I will set up several test cases with varying amount of trimming ahead of the next winter.


Second observation from the Sequoia National Park trip was that although there were several seedlings and saplings standing alone, vast majority of the youngsters were encountered in patches of dozen or so. In those patches dead trees were seen on the edges. It is hard to make any conclusion as to why they get damaged, being so close to other normally looking trees:
36.7507 -118.9775 (36°45'02.5"N 118°58'39.0"W)
 Kings Canyon Park near General Grant Tree

Patch as observed from the trail:

Practically all patches had trees of different ages, which was surprising to me. I would think that if the conditions were favorable for germination one year, all seeds would germinate then, not over the period of several years. Apparently I was wrong:
Two 4-5 year old sequoias with one 2-3 year old next to them.
This sighting was pretty typical, where a mix of young but clearly differently aged sequoias stood together. This was quite a stark sighting because most of the forrest floor is not covered with young sequoias, but where patches occurred they had a mix of ages.

A conclusion that I am making for my experiment is that perhaps sequoias benefit from close proximity of other young trees and perhaps even from the fact that they are of different age. One idea is that they protect each other from the natural elements. This spring I will plant several younger seedlings next to the already planted older ones, creating artificial patches.

A pattern that I was aware previously but which was also standing out was that the patches were located next to the streams.

12 comments:

  1. Amazing. Very interesting.

    I've bought my first growing light. What size are yours? Legnth, watt power, number of tubes?

    Thanks.

    Sergiu.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I have 1x 4-foot long grow light with 6 lamps: https://www.htgsupply.com/products/growbright-4-foot-6-lamp-high-output-t5

      I also have 2x 2-foot long grow lights: https://www.htgsupply.com/products/growbright-2-foot-6-lamp-high-output-t5

      I found that newly germinated sequoias are not terribly hungry for light, so smaller fixtures with fewer lamps will probably suffice. If you think about it, sequoias germinate after fires but still in the forest surrounded by surviving much older sequoias and other trees. I found many 1-2 year sequoias growing under or right next to 3-5 year old larger sequoias. They can definitely grow just fine for the first few years in shade.

      Delete
  2. https://imgur.com/a/Gsuhk

    My little 'giants' under a T5 grow light, 37 days old when photographed, 42 days old today.

    Sergiu

    ReplyDelete
  3. https://imgur.com/a/eDU5c

    An my 10 moths old giants grown under natural light. I have 10 of this size and 60 smaller ones that are in the same food box and I will probably not be able to transplant them and keep them alive.

    These I was able to keep them alive and grow after reading your blog. Some from the same batch, have completley stopped growing.

    We shall see how the ones grown under the T5 light will do, but seeing the evolution after 40 days, it's simply amazing.

    Just ordered a 4-foot 4-lamp fixture today, can't wait to get my hands on it.

    Sergiu

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Looks great!

      You definitely need to move them to large containers though. Also I am experimenting with cutting the longer roots based on some info about benefits of trimming before re-planting. I will make a post on that.

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  4. I have no idea what potting soil mix to use. I'm thinking of forrest soil mixed with some fine sand, vermiculite, perlite and some cheap bought general use potting soil. I don't know if peat moss would bring any improvement.

    Sergiu

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. My best practice is to use the least organic medium as possible. 100% of all experiments with black soils ended with dead sequoias. I use pure peat moss and perlite mixture in ratio 20:1 (mostly peat). For larger containers I add vermiculite and sometimes uncolored cedar mulch. Starter mix for germinated seeds is soaked with Daconil, fungicide. First three months all tiny seedlings are sprayed weekly or at least biweekly with Daconil. Less organic the better.

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    2. Daconil is Chlorothalonil and I've used it so far, but haven't had so many seedlings like you have, to thouroghly test the theory that the reduced mortality was due to its use.

      Thanks.

      Sergiu

      Delete
  5. Another thing. I really need to buy this https://store.giant-sequoia.com/item-i2-giant-sequoia-potted-plant-food/, but they will not ship it to Europe. Could you please buy this for me and I'll pay you through PayPal?

    Thank you.

    Sergiu

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. My strong recommendation is to not add any plant food to newly germinated seedlings. Older ones like 1 year olds can take a tiny amount of diluted plant food, which would essentially be so called 12:12:12 or totally neutral fertilizer. I had great results last year with adding magnesium sulfate to newly germinated seedlings. I don’t have long term data to support it was magnesium that caused vigorous greenery but the yield last year was astonishingly high. I lost about 10 seedlings after original germations out of 250.

      Delete
    2. I see now, it was magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) not potassium sulfate you used on your seedlings. Anyway, I've watered my seedlings with Epsom salt solution, but couldn't see any improvement, no vigourous greenery as you've described. I have the Epsom salt form.

      I will nevertheless water them with potassium sulfate, just to see if brings any change.

      To add somethimg to what you've previously stated. I thought peat moss is organic?!?
      Thanks.

      Sergiu

      Delete